Nathula pass from gantok & Baba temple: Permit & weather

About Nathula pass permission:

– You need vehicle permission to visit Nathula pass, the process starts one day in advance as there is limitation on number of vehicles per day to the border.

– The passes are generally arranged by the person who helps you in arranging the vehicle.You need to carry photographs and Identity proofs and actual passes are given in the morning to travel to Nathula.

– It costs around 1000 per person in shared vehicle and exclusive ones might charge around 5000-6000.Nathula is open to Indian visitors only on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturday and Sundays.

– I preferred visiting the Nathula in winters because of snow, frozen lakes & less crowd. However, most of the people suggest traveling Nathula in Late March, April and May. Traveling in summer can be problem(at-times because of early monsoons) because of landslides. However, Rainfall and cloud covers including fog may also hamper the visibility. Monsoon period between June to September in off-season in Sikkim because of these problems. Traveling becomes extremely tedious will long detours and and at times waiting for hours for road to be cleared.

– Please be updated with latest information about Nathula pass from Internet.

After spending some spellbinding time at Kyongnosla waterfall and Changu (Tsomgo) lake, we moved ahead towards Nathu la pass at Indo-China border at almost 14000 feet.

As we moved ahead of Changu (Tsomgo) lake, the abruptness and inclination of the hills increased. The weather turned out to be cold and dry even when warm sun was there. Vehicle moved heavily.

Nathula pass (5)The dome of the house at the border seen in the picture over hills

Roads were parked with snows both sides. This part of the Himalayan range was barren and futile with patches of brown grasses, wired fences, small bushes, shrubs, snow and boulders. Amidst these was a narrow road taking us to the Indo-china border.

It was first time in my life when I would be standing across fences. We reached there and the first view of the border was like a temple of thousand sacrifices to me. One and only word which instantly came out of our mouth was “Bharat mata ki jai”.

Nathula pass (4)Indian side border view at Nathu la Indo-China border

Something I learned at 14000 feet:

Some of the physical changes that I experienced were decreased hearing ability due to cold; you cant climb the stairs running, it took us almost 10 minutes to climb around 100 stairs. Due to pressure difference at such higher altitude, climbing up a single ladder requires much energy.

The border was mostly painted in saffron which is a color of sacrifice. Even the ladders that took us to the fence were painted in saffron indicating the sacrifices of the martyrs protecting our border. I felt proud to see the tricolor hoisted at the border and representing the true spirit of India at 14000 feet with pride.

Nathula pass (1)A Chinese soldier at the Nathu la pass border

And, when we reached border, first thing we could not resist to see was a Chinese soldier. A doll, fully covered in winter suits. Shake hands and take photographs.
He also took our photographs. Someone said after taking our photographs they sent our photos to their military HQ. Whatever, I did not mind sending my photo to Chinese military HQ. It was very funny to know that Indian soldiers call them “Basanti”.

Nathula pass (3)At nathu la pass, wired fence and Chiese side of border Visible in BG

The location was extraordinary. We were at thousands year old silk route. There were frozen lakes, brown grasses, barren mountains stretched square miles.

At Nathu La pass:

–Temperature dips to -25 in winters. –There is no “no man’s land” at the border only fencing is there. –Very strong and cold winds can swipe you over. –Purchase Chinese coins, A certificate to visit to Nathu la from shop at the border. — In the local market, take a look at a few Chinese products

–Enjoy squared Himalayan ranges, brown grasses, White sparkling snow in the sun
–Shake hands with Chinese soldiers, take tons of photographs of area around — enjoy the magnificent Himalayan ranges and peaks around –And in the end, feel blood of an Indian running in your veins

Nathula pass (8)A Himalayan Peak seen from Nathu La

Nathula pass (9)Chinese Coins bought at Nathu La

Nathula pass (7)The highest golf course in the world at Nathu la

After spending some time there at border, we started descending down.

Baba Harbhajan Singh Shrine, Nathula pass

The Shrine of Baba Harbhajan is almost 15 kilometers from Nathu la. There is a story behind this shrine. Here are few direct lines from Wikipedia:

Major Harbhajan Singh drowned in a glacier following the 1962 Sino-Indian War in 1968 while escorting a column of mules to a remote outpost. A manhunt was launched to find him. He was found after three days and cremated with full military honours. According to legend, it was Major Harbhajan Singh who led the search party to his body, and later, through a dream, instructed one of his colleagues to build and maintain a shrine after him.
Legend also has it that in the event of a war between India and China, Baba would warn the Indian soldiers three days in advance. During the flag meetings between the two nations at Nathula, the Chinese set a chair aside for the saint. Every year on September 14, a jeep departs with his personal belongings to the nearest railway station, New Jalpaiguri, where it is then sent by train to his village. As per train rule the train reserved seat never left blank, but for baba reservation is done to travel him at his home town every year with soldiers to drop Baba at his home town. A small sum is also sent to his mother each month.

Nathula pass (2)Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple on the way from Nathu la pass

Nathula pass (6)Miraculous Totally frozen and partly frozen lakes on the way from Nathu la

Every story comes to an end and our journey to0 came to an end. We returned back to our stay by evening leaving behind the guarding soldiers in winter at border, frozen lakes, great Himalayan wilderness, sparkling snows, brown grasses etc behind.


Also Read:  Mussoorie Travel Guide: Mall Road, Lal Tibba, George Everest

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About trekkerp

Author of The Girl from the Woods and a Travel writer from India looking forward to collect quirky tales from around the world

15 Replies to “Nathula pass from gantok & Baba temple: Permit & weather”

  1. Franca Colville

    We wil be visiting Nathula Pass on the 3rdof June. Is it possible to see snow or will it be raining.

  2. Harshani Hewagama

    we visited Nethlu pass last year.we are sri lankans and because of thah we were not permitted to vist the place.please let me know why? we are buddhists and otherwise from neighbouring country

  3. c gupta

    I,recently visited gangtok,Tsomogo lake and babamandir from 7th may -9thMay 2017.found snow along road side to Tsomogo & Babamandir(snowfall on 6thmay that we coundnot see but leftover snow was there to enjoy).Permit required for the places above.

  4. Nadir khan

    I’ll be travelling to gangtok on 14th of May’17, staying 3 night at gangtok (14,15 & 16th of May’17) is there any possibility to go to Nathula, On 17th morning we are leaving hotel to return back to kolkata.
    please advise, our main motive to go to Gangtok is to see the snow for our children’s demand. thanks

    • trekkerp Post author

      if you just want to see the snow, going to Nathula is not the only option. You can even go until changu lake or tsomgo lake…Going there needs no permit I guess… I am not sure of the current scenario but finger crossed….

  5. aamir rashid

    My self Aamir I’m from kolkata,
    Yes peyali y not I aready traveling Sikkim its a very gd place hope uh enjoy



    • trekkerp Post author

      Hi Piyali,

      Yes you can see the snow beside the road. I am not aware of the permit charges. I was there long ago but it should be little more than what I have mentioned in the blog.

  7. Vijayan TK

    The road to Nathula Pass Baba temple is constructed and maintained by BRO (GREF)in which I have worked. happy to read the legendary description.


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